Ordering acrylic or steel plates from online services can be quite expensive depending on your location. I didn’t want to waste money before I’m confident with my physical layout, so I used cardboard to test multiple designs.
While an acrylic or steel plate may look sturdier and more professional, cardboard is excellent for quick prototyping and more practical compared to e.g. acrylic in many ways.
Prototyping with cardboard described below has its drawbacks too. You may have waste amounts of cardboard at home for free, but this method will cost you a lot of time. It’s OK for a weekend build, but after I went through this a few times, I will probably ask somebody to lasercut the cardboard for me next time.
That being said, this is how I’ve done the cardboard prototype of the Tormentor:
There are all kinds and thicknesses of cardboard. I’ve found shoeboxes are the best for such projects. Get a shoebox. It doesn’t have to look fancy, the switches and keycaps will cover it anyway.
For this build I had this at hand:
These were the tools I’ve used, but you should be able to do this with an exacto knife and some pins only. If you don't have a cutting board replace it with another cardboard. Instead a steel ruler you can use a plastic card.
I liked the mountains on the top of the box.
For a good fit of the switches I aimed for the inner side of the squares.
Once finished, you get something like this.
The process is quite slow, but if you are not going to publish pictures about it, you don't have to be that precise. You have to cut multiple times to cut through the cardboard, especially if you are cutting against the grain.
Fit your switches in the cutouts. It’s a nice, firm fit, they grab in the side of the cutouts and don’t fall out (unlike from an acrylic plate). Quite the contrary: you have to be careful if you want to remove a switch to not to tear out a piece from the cardboard.
Screwing in the plastic stand-offs. They are cheap and look nice IMO. I’ve ordered an assortment of M2 stand-offs and screws with different lengths to test what lenght I need. 5-6 mm is OK for my handwiring with hot-swap sockets, I'll purchase only those ones next time.
I’ve cut the contour of the plate. There were some areas where I would ruin the plate if I'd stuck to the original path. It should work with laser cutting, but not with scissors. I didn’t want to force anything.
And the finished mock-up ready for some abuse, without wiring yet. In this stage you can already test how natural the typing feels on your layout.
I planned this version to be temporary, but with the proper amount of standoffs the cardboard prototype turned out to be sturdy enough for me to use for nine months before I felt I should try acrylic and later stainless steel plates.
Thanks for reading. For wiring check the build log of the S.Torm46.